2025
Lost in Paradise
Exploring Azores
São Miguel, the crown jewel of the Azores archipelago, is a verdant tapestry of volcanic wonders, sapphire lakes, and dramatic coastal cliffs. Known as "The Green Island," its lush landscapes beckoned us from afar. Months of planning culminated in an 8-day adventure, a journey that began with the considerable undertaking of three flights each way. While the travel was extensive, the promise of exploring this remote Atlantic paradise fueled our excitement. From the geothermal marvels of Furnas to the breathtaking vistas of Sete Cidades, we immersed ourselves in the island's unique beauty. Join us as we recount our experiences, sharing the highlights of our exploration and offering a glimpse into the magic of São Miguel.
Furnas
Our Azorean adventure began in the Furnas Valley, a place where nature's raw power is immediately evident. A stroll along the tranquil shores of Furnas Lake captivated us with its lush vegetation, a mosaic of vibrant greens painting the landscape. We then visited the Caldeiras, where hot springs, steaming with volcanic force, revealed the island's active heart.
We couldn't resist the temptation to immerse ourselves in the relaxing thermal waters by the riverbank, an oasis of warmth and tranquility. After soaking in the hot water, we explored Fumarolas, a fascinating area where local restaurants cook delicious meals using geothermal heat, a unique culinary tradition. A short hike through the surroundings revealed the richness of plant life thriving in this volcanic environment.
The day concluded with a spectacular view from Miradouro do Pico do Ferro, where the vast panorama of the entire Furnas Valley took our breath away. Our first day in São Miguel was a magical introduction, a place where geothermal wonders intertwine with overwhelming natural beauty.
Rome
Rome, the Eternal City, is a living museum, a testament to millennia of history. Its cobblestone streets whisper tales of emperors, gladiators, and artists who shaped Western civilization. We had the incredible opportunity to immerse ourselves in this historical richness during a whirlwind one-day visit.
Our journey began at the Area Sacra di Largo Argentina, a square housing the ruins of four Roman temples, a poignant reminder of ancient life bustling beneath the modern city. Nearby, the Basilica of Saint Mary of Minerva offered a moment of serene contemplation with its stunning Gothic architecture.
A short walk led us to the awe-inspiring Pantheon, a marvel of Roman engineering, its massive dome and oculus leaving us breathless. Tradition says it was built on the site where Romulus was carried up to heaven by Mars. Then, we admired the beauty of the Trevi Fountain, a baroque masterpiece that impressed us with its grandeur.
The afternoon was dedicated to the heart of ancient Rome. At the Foro di Traiano, we marveled at the intricate carvings of Trajan's Column, a monument to the emperor's military victories. The imposing Colosseum stood as a silent witness to gladiatorial combats and public spectacles, its grandeur undiminuished by time.
Crossing the Tiber River, we entered Vatican City, where the Basilica di San Pietro soared with its breathtaking dome and ornate interior, a masterpiece of Renaissance art. Finally, we stood before the imposing Castel Sant'Angelo, a former mausoleum transformed into a papal fortress, its ramparts offering panoramic views of the city.
Throughout the day, we had the chance to savor delicious Roman cuisine, including authentic pizza prepared with fresh ingredients.
7 Scari
The Seven Ladders Canyon (Canionul Șapte Scări) is a stunning natural wonder located in the Piatra Mare Mountains near Brașov, Romania. Carved by the Șapte Scări Brook, the canyon features a series of seven waterfalls cascading down a narrow gorge. The tallest waterfall plunges an impressive 35 meters, creating a breathtaking spectacle.
Kolyu Ficheto Bridge
The Kolyu Ficheto Bridge in Bulgaria, also known as the Belenski Most, spans the Yantra River in Byala, Bulgaria. It's considered one of the most significant achievements of Bulgarian National Revival engineering and architecture. It was built at the request of Midhat Pasha, the Vali of the Danube Vilayet, to connect Ruse, the main town of the region, with Tsargrad, the capital of the Ottoman Empire. We enjoyed a visit to the bridge's museum; though small, it's well-curated and provides a realistic look at how the bridge was built.
Exploring Crete
Crete, the largest and most populous of the Greek islands, is a captivating blend of ancient history, stunning landscapes, and vibrant culture. Located in the southern Aegean Sea, it boasts rugged mountains, fertile valleys, and breathtaking coastlines with pristine beaches. This winter holiday season, we set out to explore this diverse island with our new Sprinter 4x4 campervan, eager to discover its hidden gems and experience its unique charm.
Thermopylae
The Thermopylae hot springs, located near the legendary battlefield, are a hidden gem in Greece. These natural springs, known for their therapeutic sulfur-rich waters, have been used since ancient times. Knowing about them beforehand, we were happy to include a stop here on our drive to Athens. It offered a welcome respite after many hours on the road. The springs are freely accessible and offer a unique opportunity to relax and rejuvenate amidst a historically significant landscape.
Port of Piraeus
Piraeus has been a vital port since ancient times, serving as Athens' gateway to the sea. Today, it's a major hub for trade, tourism, and transportation, with modern facilities and infrastructure to handle millions of passengers and tons of cargo every year. From this bustling port, we embarked on an overnight ferry to Crete. Despite a stormy night at sea, we arrived safely in Heraklion the following morning.
Knossos Palace
Knossos Palace, located near Heraklion, is the largest Bronze Age archaeological site on Crete and is considered Europe's oldest city. It was the ceremonial and political center of the Minoan civilization and is thought to be the mythical labyrinth of King Minos. The palace complex is a sprawling network of reconstructed rooms, courtyards, and corridors, featuring vibrant frescoes depicting scenes of Minoan life.
Even though we visited on a rainy day, we were completely captivated by the grandeur of these structures built in such distant times. It was incredible to walk through the ruins and imagine the lives of the people who once inhabited this magnificent palace.
Heraklion
After our visit to Knossos, we headed to Heraklion, the lively capital of Crete. Heraklion is a a city where the echoes of the past resonate with the pulse of the present.
Unfortunately, the weather wasn't on our side - it was a rainy and windy day. This limited our exploration of the historic center. However, we still got a sense of the Christmas atmosphere, although it was quite different from what we're used to back home in Transylvania, where Christmas is synonymous with snow. It was interesting to experience the holiday spirit in a warmer climate, with festive decorations adorning palm trees instead of snow-covered pines!
Palaiokastro Fortress
Palaiokastro Fortress stands as a silent sentinel overlooking the Aegean Sea. Its weathered walls whisper tales of Venetian power and Ottoman conquest, while offering nice views of the Cretan coastline.
Reaching the fortress might be a challenge for people who are afraid of heights, but once inside, the ruins are easily accessible and fascinating to explore.
Anogia
Anogia is a mountain village in Crete, known for its brave and independent people. Throughout history, they have always resisted those who wanted to conquer their land. During both the Ottoman and Nazi occupations, the people of Anogia fought fiercely for their freedom.
However, while Anogia has this impressive history, the village itself didn't particularly grab our attention. We didn't see many signs of local traditions, and the overall atmosphere felt a bit touristy. It seems like the main draw for visitors might be the restaurants, rather than the village's history or culture.
Melidoni Cave
The Melidoni Cave, also known as Gerontospilios, is a captivating historical and archaeological site nestled in the Cretan mountains. Once a place of worship for the Minoans, it's filled with stunning stalactites and stalagmites. The cave also holds a tragic story, as it was the site of a massacre during the Greek War of Independence in 1824 where hundreds of villagers were killed. Today, the cave serves as a poignant reminder of Crete's struggle for freedom and offers visitors a glimpse into the island's rich and complex history.
Arkadi Monastery
Arkadi Monastery, a symbol of Cretan resistance and sacrifice, is a must-visit. This 16th-century Orthodox monastery, with its stunning Venetian-influenced architecture, played a pivotal role in Crete's fight for independence from the Ottomans. In 1866, it became the site of a tragic but heroic event where hundreds of Cretans, including women and children, chose to blow themselves up rather than surrender. Today, Arkadi stands as a monument to their bravery and a reminder of Crete's enduring spirit.
Patsos Gorge
Patsos Gorge is a relatively short but scenic gorge located in the Amari Valley of Crete. Known for its lush vegetation and peaceful atmosphere, the gorge features a small river that flows through it year-round. Hikers can follow the trail, crossing the river on wooden bridges and encountering the historic cave church of Agios Antonios.
Unfortunately, we couldn't complete the entire trail because it was raining and streams had formed on the path in some places. It is certainly much more beautiful to walk in good weather.
Rethymno
Rethymno's historic center is a captivating blend of architectural influences, reflecting the city's rich past under Venetian and Ottoman rule. Narrow, cobbled streets wind past elegant Venetian mansions, adorned with wrought-iron balconies. The impressive Rimondi Fountain, a 17th-century landmark with ornate carvings, still provides a refreshing respite from the Mediterranean sun. Exploring the Old Town is like stepping back in time, with its charming alleyways, hidden courtyards, and historic landmarks. We visited the Archaeological Museum of Rethymnon, which houses a fascinating collection of artifacts from the surrounding area and enjoyed wandering through this atmospheric district.
Koules of Souda
An Ottoman fortress built in the 19th century to control access to Souda Bay. Constructed on the ruins of ancient Aptera, it features two prominent towers and a strategic position overlooking the bay. We arrived in our campervan late one afternoon, only to find the fortress closed. It seems it's inaccessible during the winter months. No matter, though! We spent the night parked right outside its walls, enjoying a perfect view of the bay as the sun dipped below the horizon. Even without venturing inside, the Koules of Souda provided a memorable backdrop for our overnight stay.
Aptera Ancient Site
Perched on a hilltop overlooking Souda Bay, the ruins of Aptera offer a glimpse into Crete's rich history, dating back to Minoan times and flourishing through the Hellenistic and Roman periods. We spent a fascinating morning exploring the site, impressed by the well-preserved water cisterns, the Roman baths, and the ancient theatre. We especially enjoyed the tranquility of the site, with only a few other visitors sharing the experience.
Agia Triada Tzagaroli Monastery
This monastery is a beautiful and peaceful place. We enjoyed walking through the historic buildings and sunny courtyards, with their colorful orange trees. Stepping into the church, we were struck by the beauty of the iconography and the serene ambiance created by the gently flickering candlelight. We relaxed in the courtyard for a while and enjoyed the quiet atmosphere. It was a really peaceful place, and we felt very calm and relaxed there.
Seitan Limania
The drive to Seitan Limania was an adventure in itself! The steep, winding road with its sheer drops definitely got our adrenaline pumping. But the views were incredible, and we were excited to reach the parking area above the bay. From there, we hiked down a rocky path to the small beach nestled between towering cliffs. The water was an unbelievable shade of turquoise, but the waves were crashing against the shore, so we decided to skip the swim.
Katholiko Monastery
Katholiko Monastery is a historic cave monastery located in a gorge on Crete's Akrotiri peninsula. Dating back to the 11th century, the monastery is built into the cliff face and is accessible via a steep path. The ruins offer a glimpse into the lives of the monks who once inhabited this isolated retreat. The surrounding gorge provides stunning views of the Cretan landscape and a sense of tranquility. We particularly enjoyed the hike to the monastery itself, and the continued walk down to the sea through the spectacular gorge. The path is steep, but the views and the sense of discovery make it well worth the effort. This was definitely one of our favorite hikes in Crete!
Chania
Chania, the second-largest city in Crete, is a fascinating destination that seamlessly blends rich history with natural beauty. We visited this jewel of the Mediterranean and were captivated by its unique atmosphere.
A walk through the old town took us through a maze of narrow streets lined with Venetian, Ottoman, and Byzantine buildings. Every stone, every arch whispered stories of the people who have left their mark on this place.
One of the most impressive monuments is the Orthodox church, which over the centuries has served as a Catholic cathedral and a mosque. This emblematic building perfectly reflects the cultural diversity of Chania.
The Venetian harbor, with its imposing arsenals, was another attraction. Here, we visited the Maritime Museum, where we discovered the naval history of Crete and admired impressive ship models.
We were also lucky enough to catch a folk performance at the harbor, featuring a talented group of children. Their traditional dances, colorful costumes, and boundless energy were delightful.
Chania is a destination worth exploring. We enjoyed every moment spent here and will definitely return with joy.
Balos Beach
Our Cretan adventure continued with a trip to the legendary Balos Beach. This stunning lagoon, known for its turquoise waters and pristine white sand, was calling our name!
Getting there was an adventure in itself. The final stretch involved navigating a rather challenging unpaved road with a steep climb. Thankfully, our trusty Sprinter 4x4 campervan handled it like a champ!
From the parking area, we set off on a hike down to the famed beach. The views along the way were simply breathtaking – panoramic vistas of the lagoon and the surrounding mountains.
And then, there it was – Balos Beach in all its glory! Despite the cool weather and strong wind, we couldn't resist taking our first dip in the sea, on the last day of the year. It was invigorating, to say the least!
The unique beauty of Balos is truly something special. The shallow, crystal-clear water and the soft, white sand create a paradise that's perfect for swimming, sunbathing, and simply relaxing.
Even though it was a bit chilly, we had an amazing time exploring this incredible beach. It was definitely worth every bump in the road!
Elafonisi Beach
Our initial plan for New Year's Eve was to ring in the new year under the stars at Balos Beach. However, we soon discovered that overnight stays weren't permitted in the area. So, with a slight change of plans, we set off in search of another suitable spot to welcome 2025. Our search led us to Elafonisi Beach!
After an hour's drive, we stumbled upon the perfect camping spot. To our delight, we found a fellow traveler from Spain, enjoying a crackling campfire beside his van. We joined him, sharing stories under the starlit sky. It was a truly magical way to spend the final hours of the year.
Waking up on New Year's Day, we were greeted by the most stunning view – the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean stretching out before us. After a leisurely breakfast and a quick exploration of our surroundings, we headed to the famed Elafonisi Beach.
Elafonisi is renowned for its unique pink sand, created by tiny fragments of shells and corals. The shallow, crystal-clear water is perfect for wading and swimming, and the lagoon-like setting creates a sense of tranquility. It's no wonder this beach is considered one of the most beautiful in the world!
We spent the day strolling along the soft sand, and even taking a dip in the refreshing water. It was the perfect way to start the new year – surrounded by natural beauty.
Elafonisi Beach exceeded all expectations. It is the best beach we've ever been to!
Palaiochora
After enjoying the beautiful Elafonisi beach, we continued our journey east along the south coast of Crete. Our next destination was Palaiochora, a small town located on a peninsula jutting out into the Libyan Sea.
We didn't know much about Palaiochora before we arrived, but we were hoping it would be a good place to relax and enjoy the rest of our day. We were a bit disappointed when we first arrived. The town itself was small and didn't have much to offer in terms of sights or activities. The center of the town was basically a bunch of locals sitting around drinking. We did find the ruins of an old fort, but it was in disrepair.
We decided to stay the night in Palaiochora. We found a pleasant place to spend the night along the waterfront promenade where we enjoyed a beautiful sunset.
Lissos
We continued our journey to the village of Sougia. From there, we decided to hike the Lissos Gorge to the ancient city of Lissos.
The Lissos Gorge is a beautiful natural wonder located in southwestern Crete. The trail is well-maintained and relatively easy to follow. The hike took us about 2 hours, but it was worth every minute. The scenery was absolutely stunning, with towering cliffs and lush vegetation.
The ancient city of Lissos is located at a small bay, accessible after hiking through the gorge. It was once a thriving city, but it was destroyed by an earthquake in the 7th century. Today, only ruins remain. But they are still an impressive sight. We spent some time exploring the ruins and imagining what life must have been like in ancient Lissos.
The hike back to Sougia was just as beautiful as the hike in. We took our time and enjoyed the scenery. We arrived back in Sougia just in time for sunset. We watched the sun go down over the Libyan Sea before and enjoyed the evening.
Samaria Gorge
From Sougia we took a ferry to Agia Roumeli to visit the Samaria Gorge, the highlight of our trip to Crete.
The Samaria Gorge is a beautiful natural wonder located in southwestern Crete. It is the longest gorge in Europe, with a length of 16 kilometers. The scenery was absolutely stunning, with towering cliffs, lush vegetation, and crystal-clear streams. We saw a lot of wild goats along the way.
We started our hike at the bottom of the gorge, near the sea. The trail followed the riverbed, and we had to cross the river several times. The water chilled us to the bone, but we had to continue.
We actually made it to the Iron Gate, the most impressive part of the gorge, a narrow passage where the cliffs are only a few meters apart. However, we were unable to hike further than the Iron Gate because the trail beyond was damaged by flash floods. Seeing the Iron Gate itself was an amazing sight.
After our hike, we took the ferry back to Sougia.
Aradena Bridge
Perched dramatically on the southern coast of Crete, the Aradena Bridge stretches 84 meters across the rugged Aradena Gorge. This wooden-planked Bailey bridge, completed in 1986, stands 138 meters high, connecting the edges of the wild canyon and granting access to the long-abandoned village of Aradena. It is considered one of the world's highest Bailey bridges.
Kolokasia
Kolokasia is an abandoned village in the Sfakia region of Crete. Its name derives from the "kolokasia" plant, known for its potato-like root. Historically, the village offered panoramic views of the valleys of Agios Nektarios and Frangokastello, providing protection from pirates and invaders. Due to its inaccessibility, residents relocated to Agios Nektarios in the 1970s. Today, Kolokasia is characterized by its traditional architecture, with many houses in ruins and some restored by new owners.
Zamek Frangocastello
Zamek Frangocastello, a Venetian fortress perched on the southern coast of Crete, bears witness to centuries of history, including a pivotal battle during the Greek War of Independence. Its weathered walls and strategic location speak to a turbulent past.
Unfortunately, we were unable to visit the fortress inside because it was closed.
Preveli Beach
Preveli Beach, a protected haven on Crete's southern coast, captivates with its lush palm forest, where a winding river flows into the turquoise sea, framed by dramatic cliffs. The towering palms create a serene oasis, offering a tranquil escape amidst breathtaking natural beauty. We really enjoyed taking a walk through the palm trees and crossing the clear, refreshing river.
Kourtaliotiko Gorge
Kourtaliotiko Gorge, also known as Asomatos Gorge, is a stunning natural wonder located on the southern side of western Crete. The Kourtaliotiko River has carved a deep gorge between the imposing Kouroupa and Xiron mountains, creating towering cliffs, caves, and a 40-meter high waterfall. We tried to reach the iconic spot where you can get into the water, but unfortunately we couldn't find it. There was no one in the area to ask either. Anyway, it being January, the water would have been pretty cold. So we just admired the whole area from the edge.
Triopetra Beach
The name "Triopetra" translates to "three rocks" in Greek, and it's easy to see why. Three striking rock formations rise dramatically from the sea, creating a unique and picturesque backdrop. Triopetra is actually comprised of two beaches separated by a small cape. One is sandy with some rocks, while the other is known for its coarse sand and deep blue waters. We made our spot on the fine sandy beach, a slice of heaven where it felt like we had the sea all to ourselves. Beyond us, only the silhouettes of three campers could be seen in the distance. An idyllic setting where we fully enjoyed the beauty of the sea.
Palace of Phaistos
We're back for our dose of culture and history: We visited the Minoan Palace of Phaistos, where we strolled among the ruins on a sunny day.
The Palace of Phaistos is one of the most important archaeological sites in Crete. It was built in the Bronze Age and was destroyed by an earthquake in the 15th century BC. The palace was never rebuilt, but the ruins are still impressive. They show that the palace was once a large and complex building with many rooms and courtyards.
Matala
We then went to Matala, the former port of Phaistos, where we visited the Caves of Matala. These are a series of caves located in the cliffs above Matala Beach. The caves were first inhabited in the Neolithic Age and were later used as tombs by the Romans. In the 1960s, the caves were occupied by hippies who were later driven out by the Greek Orthodox Church and the military junta. Unfortunately, we were unable to visit them because it was closed.
Martsalo Gorge
Martsalo Gorge delivered an absolutely memorable hike. Camping at the entrance, under a vast starlit sky and surrounded by sheep, was magical. The next day, the gorge unfolded before us, a dramatic landscape of towering cliffs and hidden wonders. We discovered a monastery nestled into the rock face, a testament to faith and perseverance. The unexpected sight of palm trees provided a welcome respite before we finally reached a breathtaking gulf, its turquoise waters inviting us to rest and reflect.
Gortys
Back to history: Gortys holds a prominent place in Cretan history. From its Minoan origins to its rise as a major Doric city and its subsequent importance under Roman rule, Gortys witnessed the ebb and flow of civilizations. The city's legal code, inscribed on the "Great Code" (found inscribed on the walls of a building), is a significant contribution to ancient law. The ruins of Gortys offer a unique opportunity to study the evolution of a city over centuries, reflecting the diverse influences that shaped its destiny. The ancient olive trees stand as silent sentinels, their twisted trunks a testament to the passage of time.
Rouvas Gorge
Despite the discouraging weather, we set out to visit the impressive Rouvas Gorge. Rouvas Gorge, nestled in the Psiloritis mountain range, is known for its stunning natural beauty, featuring a lush forest of maple, pine, and cypress trees, a rarity in the often arid Cretan landscape. It's also home to diverse flora and fauna, and the Karteros River flows through it, creating waterfalls and pools in the spring. At one point, as the trail became very exposed and rain began to fall, we decided to turn back. We will definitely return to hike the entire gorge because we were fascinated by it.
Trypiti beach
After the rainy hike through Rouvas Gorge, we set off again towards the sea, specifically for Trypiti beach. It wasn't the beach that impressed us, but rather the journey there and back. It was the most intense off-road experience we had in Crete, with narrow, steep, and exposed dirt roads. The highlight was the passage through the Trypiti Gorge, an extremely narrow section with a road damaged by torrents. Despite the intense journey, Trypiti beach was a bit underwhelming. It had many improvised constructions and permanently parked caravans that gave it a messy vibe. We did take a refreshing dip in the sea before choosing another return route, just as thrilling as the first. It was definitely a memorable experience.
Dermatos beach
After some busy days, we felt the need to chill down. Dermatos beach was the perfect place for this. Quiet, sunshine, and several swims in the crystal-clear sea were the perfect ingredients for relaxation.
Agios Nikolaos
Agios Nikolaos is too well-known to miss. The town itself didn't particularly impress us. Only the inner gulf with the fishing boats makes you imagine what it was like once. The commercial streets with new buildings are not to our taste. After visiting the marina and admiring the various boats, we moved on.
Poros Elounda Windmills
These ancient stone windmills, built by Venetians in the 13th century, stand proudly on the shore of a beach area in Kalydon, Greece. They're a picturesque and historically significant landmark.
Heraklion
Unfortunately, the journey came to an end. We headed to the port of Heraklion to board the ferry.
Our 18-day journey allowed us to experience about two-thirds of what we had hoped for. Crete offers endless possibilities, from visiting places steeped in history and culture, to spectacular hiking trails and relaxation by the sea. We will definitely return to continue our exploration.